Direct MP3 Download: TheMakerz #6 – A New New Guy and Applaud Jonas’s Notes
DoorToDoorGeek – Steve McLaughlin – Podnutz.com
Aaron Turnbull –
Jonas Rullo aka Bambiker, aka jrullo on IRC Tumblr: http://bambiker.tumblr.com/
flyingRich – http://flyingRich.com
Chad Cory – youtube – watchmydiy https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnXEH0eHynU464l5Lw9zyEw etsy shop – c3dbycac https://www.etsy.com/shop/c3dbycac
Brett Hansen – @BrettHansenPC Twitter
Liam Tidwell – Forcing yourself to learn F360, Tinkercad, Onshape etc – use the training tools – design something you don’t want
Fusion 360 Webinars – https://fusion360.autodesk.com/events?categories%5B%5D=webinar
DoorToDoorGeek – split and print pieces ir gamble and combine to fill the bed?
LinuxCNC controls CNC machines. It can drive milling machines, lathes, 3d printers, laser cutters, plasma cutters, robot arms, hexapods, and more – http://linuxcnc.org/
Replicape 3D printer cape – http://beagleboard.org/project/replicape
Your guide to installing Smoothieboard in a 3D printer – http://smoothieware.org/3d-printer-guide
Aaron Turnbull – Bed adhesion – What am I using currently, what have i used and what am I’m moving to.
PEI, Masking Tape, Glue Stick, Bare Glass, Kapton Tape
Fiberglass Evercoat Mold Release Agent, 8-Ounce – https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Evercoat-Release-Agent-8-Ounce/dp/B00144B4EM/
Easy Spray-On – Easy Release for Molds – http://www.fibreglast.com/product/PVA_Release_Film_13/Mold_Releases
Jonas – Make it big! – I made one big print and now I’m an expert! The reality is; anyone can do this if you have something else to do for 6.5 hours.
I used PETG to make a giant (small) office waste basket for my filament droppings.
- Find a vase or some other cylindrical shape you like.
- Open in your favorite slicer. (if you need more work on the shape open any .stl in tinekrcad.com and edit there)
- Turn on Spiral Vase mode for your slicer and set options as desired. Make a small test print at those settings to be sure everything is alright.
- Start printing.
LOOK OUT! For:
- Feeds and Speeds. Make sure you print a very small test version to make sure speed, extrusion, and temps are just right. I started at speed 45 but slowed down my machine to 90% at the beginning. Depending on the slope of your model, you may not be able to print at full speed for all sections. You may need to watch the print where it changes from vertical to non-vertical throughout the print time.
- Space 1999. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZpMgNE2nHk The meta probe astronaut virus infection musn’t be allowed to stop us. No, not that, I mean do you have enough space to print this monster? a) Check how far back or forward your print bed travels. If your print is tall, is there anything behind the printer that hangs down or would get in the way. I had to move my table away from the wall toward the end. b) If this is your first large print, will any of your wires get in the way or be pulled with unnecessary tension due to how far the extruder assembly travels? You may need to re-route some of the wire management if it’s loose or this is a home build, etc. My extruder wires hung down across the print as it neared the very top. If you touch a thin print like this on one side, the other side will move because it’s all connected. Your print lines will be off alignment if something puts pressure on the print as it grows.
- Filament Unbound: Check the full path of your filament route. The CR-10 extruder motor is mounted to the Z-axis which means the place the filament enters the machine moves up the printer as it prints. If you have filament on a non-standard spool it could be pulled off the carrier. If your filament unwraps from the bottom and your printing something tall, flip it over so it unwraps from the top. This gives you a better angle to the filament intake as it moves to the top of the printer. I feel like if I had my filament on the stock filament holder setup as it is in the directions, my spool would have been pulled into the printer. The extruder wires are just long enough to get to the top of the printer with the control box very close to the printer. I would have had to flip the original spool holder the opposite direction to accommodate moving the control box right up against the printer.
Nice looking CR-10 enclosure, or any printer for that matter. Uses easy to get and easy to print parts. You may need to be comfortable with taking apart your controller case if you want to go the full monty. The controller case is take apart and hung under the table in pieces, but you could just as easily cut a little under table shelf with the extra MDF.
Basic parts: Home Depot/Lowe’s ⅛ inch “plexiglass”, MDF, and a low cost Ikea table, and some screws.
More Velocity Painting – Woohoo!
There is a Linux, Mac, and Windows GUI tool for setting up the velocity painting gcode files. But, no viewer. http://www.velocitypainting.xyz/gui/download.html
Actually it’s on their website, just not in the program.
G-code viewer that shows velocity painted designs complete with color coded speed visualization. http://www.velocitypainting.xyz/gui/gcode.html
Yes, this is from the guys that make the velocity painting script I’ve been using.
Octoprint gcode viewer does not show the velocity painting.
I believe Simplify 3D (paid) shows velocity painted gcode preview. The other free gcode viewers I found online do not show the velocity painted pattern except for the one above. I haven’t tested both versions of Cura.
Next week – Report on printing E3D Edge filament. I have Green and Clear Edge brand filament coming from E3D. This is a new PETG base filament that should print as easily as PLA. I’m also trying out their red PLA.
flyingRich – More Black Scotch Brite – absent
Chad Cory – the fun I’m having with upgrading the mpcnc (thingiverse things not printing right or is my mpcnc not the same as others) and how it is sometimes better to start from scratch then to edit a stl. File you find on the internet.
Brett Hansen – Discussion: designing a 3d printed case and making it look nice vapor smoothing, mold making, and sanding – absent