TheMakerz #10 – Elmer’s Extreme Gluestick And Chad Loves LOTR

Direct MP3 Download: TheMakerz #10 – Elmer’s Extreme Gluestick And Chad Loves LOTR

TheMakerz – #010

DoorToDoorGeek – Steve McLaughlin –

Aaron Turnbull –

Liam Tidwell –

Jonas Rullo aka Bambiker,  aka jrullo on IRC Tumblr:

flyingRich –

Chad Cory – youtube – watchmydiy  etsy shop – c3dbycac

Brett Hansen – @Newstalgic Twitter


Email –
Instagram –
MeWe –
YouTube –



Liam Tidwell –  Nylon 454-50C bed with Elmer’s extreme gluestick

CR-10 printing mid air – grinding/heatcreep

Fix/watch in a familiar/comfortable area

Anet – ZProbe slightly off bed

Scotch Locks –

Label your cables

DoorToDoorGeek – The Slim Wallet –
Origami Carabiner by –

Stepping into more flexible filament soon?

Flexible 3D Printing Filaments Tested – Which Flex is Best? –

Chad Cory – laser upgrade is out of date but still works?

Jonas – You guys are poison! – 3D pen purchase because Brett mentioned it last week!

3D Stereo Drawing Pen RP-100B: Amazon Link To Pen

This is actually a really neat tool. This one was $19.99 and ships for free with Amazon Prime.

This is a clone of a more expensive model. You can see a live demo from our “buddy” Tom Salanderer from last weekend:

This one actually does PLA and ABS temps. Max was about 245. I also immediately tried Esun PETG, which I love. All worked well.

Operation is simple. Plug in, choose PLA or ABS on the tiny LCD screen and wait for it to warm up. There are LED lights that change when the temp is good. Poke in a bit of PLA/ABS/PETG and press the forward button until you see extrusion.

You can hold the button for continuous extrusion control, or click the button twice to start it extruding by itself. You can adjust the speed as it extrudes for really good control.

The variable speed is a nice feature.

After running for several minutes continuously, it started extruding slowly which felt like a jam. Could have been running too fast for the temp I was using. Regardless of the “jam”, I was able to unload the filament by pressing the back arrow button that auto unloads filament. I then immediately reloaded the filament and kept going. “Jam” solved. I’ve only used it for about an hour but have not had to disassemble for jams like a real 3D printer. It looks like you can pinch the end and take off the nozzle, but haven’t found that necessary yet.

I made this Frankenstein bowl out of my lesser quality alien head keychain prints. It took me about 20 minutes.

Yes, terrible, but pretty fun and definitely quick.



  • Easy to use
  • Fun to glue all your failed prints into the most monstrous sculpture you have ever seen!
  • Ceramic nozzle (cooler than brass supposedly)
  • Works with most any material
  • Auto unloads
  • Variable speed
  • Change temp on the fly ( wide range)
  • Jams did not require disassembly (so far)
  • Outside of the tip cleans easily while hot. If you regularly put out candles with your finger tips, you could pinch off the typical 3D printer ooze by hand. I chose to use tiny Rick pliers.
  • Replacement nozzles are available
  • Many clone resellers
  • No problem switching filaments provided you clear the former filament at the right temp with the newer filament


  • Short cord – Normal 3 foot cord, but if you plug it into the wall, you really need a power strip or thick extension cord at desk height to use on a table top. (please do not use the skinniest lamp wire extension cord you can find. The wall wart does get warm during normal use. I expect it’s using much of it’s 2 amp supply.)
  • 12V 2 amp power required; not easily powered by USB power pack without a converter – must be tethered to outlet
  • Will jam/extrude very slowly after several minutes of continuous use, however un-jams by unloading and reloading filament. Could have been going too fast for the temp.
  • Oozes like a normal 3D printer nozzle or caulk gun. You an hear it retracting but it wasn’t enough when I was running PLA on the hotter side of suggested temps. If you want to print cleanly, you’ll need to wipe the nozzle after every application.

Conclusion: For less than $20, definite thumbs up and +10. Short of this thing breaking within a month, a definite great buy.


I GOT WOOD (filament)! – ColorFab BambooFill

Actually it’s Bamboo impregnated PLA filament from E3d. This is total novelty stuff. It definitely has an interesting texture. So far I printed with .175 layer height and the lines look like tightly woven linen. There’s a neat tiny striated pattern along the extruded length as well. Imagine a spool of thread but bamboo colored. It looks like your print is a single strand of thread all coiled onto itself in the shape of your part.

There is a noticeable change in the print where the print head changes direction, however continuous corners are really nice. I’m not sure why but there’s a really exaggerated Z-scar effect where the head changes direction. This could be a problem with my print head, but I didn’t notice the effect on other materials printed. Changing print speed, etc. may improve things. More experimentation will be necessary.

This one is a little pricey, but it is special. $29 British pounds for 600g from

The base material is PLA which is impregnated with bamboo bits just like most any wood filament.

I printed toward the hotter end of the PLA temp spectrum and the color still looks like the spool. It’s probably not a candidate for printing at different temps to achieve different colors.

It feels like PLA when sanding with the added “enhancement” of smelling like smoldering saw dust. The saw dust smell is apparent but not obnoxious while printing. It really is bamboo. I’ve sanded and cut quite a bit of bamboo and it definitely smells like this.


  • Smells nice when printing
  • Prints nicely like most PLA
  • Has a neat linen and/or spool of thread look to the final print
  • The printed continuous corners are crisp and smooth


  • Expensive – $29 pounds per 600 grams
  • Z-scar seems more noticeable than other PLA

James –

Brett Hansen –

flyingRich –  

Aaron Turnbull –